Choose your cliche: Looks can be deceiving. Don't judge a book by its cover.   Even before lunch arrived, my friend and I had to acknowledge the wisdom of those expressions. Still, the exterior of Crossroads Cafe in Passaic Park didn't promise much. A little shoebox of a place across from two gas stations, its decor begins and ends with a few neon beer signs. Inside is a different story. Adjacent to a long, dimly lit bar are two crisply cheerful dining rooms, their blond wood tables seemingly set for a perpetual St. Patrick's Day celebration: green paper place mats and bud vases sporting artificial green tulips.  Even our waiter wore a short-sleeved green jersey.  The menu, however, leaned heavily toward italian, with pizza ($3.95 to $9.95), pastas, salads, and entrees.  A welcome note of caution told us to expect a 15-minute wait, as everything is prepared to order.  We decided to split an order of fried onion rings while we waited, and were rewarded by the real thing: a generous portion made with sweet, thick-sliced Spanish onions.  Our main courses -- thoughtfully split in the kitchen so we could share -- were eggplant rollatini (the slices breaded, filled with ricotta, and topped by melted mozzarella) and insalata crossroads (romaine, endive, radicchio, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and red onion topped with a lovely creamy vinaigrette), for $7.95 and $6.95, respectively.  The portions were more than generous, but we couldn't resist trying the homemade apple pie touted by our waiter.  With fresh apples -- perfectly done and not too sweet -- and a heavenly crust, we were delighted we didn't miss out.  The fresh whipped cream that flanked our wedge of pie (two dollops; you can't share everything) convinced us that this is a kitchen that cares.

Fare: Italian

Prices: $3.95 to $9.95

Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V

Reservations: No

Days closed: Sunday

Liquor/wine available: Yes

Facilities for the disabled: Yes

Area for non-smokers: No

Accommodations for children: Yes

Atmosphere: Casual

Rated by the Record: June 23, 1997

    Restaurants are rated on the quality of their food, amosphere, service and value.  Halves are given when a restaurant surpasses a level in food, service, or ambience.  Reviewers make at least two anonymous visits to a restaurant, and The Record always pays the tab.